17 de septiembre de 2009

Con las ovejas en las Bardenas

Todos los días madrugo, pero hoy ha sido algo excepcional. Me he levantado a las seis menos cuarto de la mañana (cuando todavía no están puestas ni las calles) para ver un auténtico espectáculo que marca en Navarra el comienzo del otoño: la entrada de los rebaños en las Bardenas Reales.


Cuando el frío y la nieve se intuyen cerca, miles de ovejas procedentes de los valles pirenaicos del Salazar y Roncal (de una belleza abrumadora), bajan por las cañadas reales en busca de los parajes más secos y menos inhóspitos de las Bardenas, donde permanecerán hasta mayo. Esta costumbre ancestral se mantiene por lo menos desde el año 882, cuando el rey Sancho García firmó el derecho de los pastores salacencos y roncaleses a usar los pastos invernales de las Bardenas como agradecimiento al coraje de las gentes del valle en su lucha contra los sarracenos. Y desde entonces el ritual de la trashumancia se mantiene. Es cierto que cada vez son menos los pastores y menos las ovejas, pero a cambio, cada vez son más las personas que se acercan al amanecer a este paraje lunar para ver entrar los rebaños azuzados por los perros.

A las ocho menos cuarto de la mañana, y bajo una monumental tromba de agua, llegábamos a "El Paso" situado en el término de Carcastillo, muy cerca del Monumento al Pastor, una emotiva escultura realizada por Loperena. Los visitantes nos agrupamos muy cerca de la "cabaña de los guardas" (más que todo por refugiarnos de la lluvia) y a las ocho de la mañana, un disparo de escopeta ha marcado la entrada del primer rebaño a la Bardena Blanca.


Las ovejas entran al galope, agrupadas, y los orgullosos pastores, auténticos protagonistas de la jornada, les siguen corriendo y golpeando el suelo con su cayado para aligerar el paso de los animales. Mientras los perros, maravillosamente entrenados, las van rodeando con cuidado de que ninguna se despiste. Durante todo el día y en las jornadas siguientes el lugar se convierte en un continuo discurrir de ovejas, cuya cifra puede alcanzar hasta las 100.000 cabezas aproximadamente.



Acude gente de toda Navarra, pero destacan especialmente los visitantes procedentes de Roncal y Salazar, los franceses, grandes admiradores del paisaje árido de la Bardena, y los procedentes de los pueblos que forman la Comunidad de Bardenas (veintidos en total), en cuya Junta ostentan idénticos derechos y deberes con independencia del número de vecinos que contabilicen. Esto es así desde que, en el siglo XVIII, con la muerte del Rey Carlos II de Austria sin descendencia, se desencadenara la Guerra de Sucesión entre los Austrias y los Borbones. Aunque éstos fueron los vencedores, necesitaban medios económicos para sufragar los importantes gastos generados por la guerra. Las veintidos entidades que tenían privilegios sobre las Bardenas Reales se dirigieron entonces al Virrey presentando y ofreciendo la cantidad de nueve mil pesos en contraprestación a la cesión del goce a perpetuidad y en exclusiva. A lo que accedió el Rey Felipe V (no por nueve sino por doce mil reales) mediante Real Cédula de 14 de abril de 1705. Durante los siglos posteriores se configuró como una mancomunidad municipal muy especial desde su origen y por sus propios miembros, ya que en su seno se encuentran municipios, otras mancomunidades (las Juntas de los Valles)y un Monasterio (el de la Oliva).


Y como todo espectáculo, fiesta o tradición que se precie (al menos en Navarra), no puede finalizar sin una degustación popular, los asistentes hemos disfrutado de un exquisito almuerzo a base de chistorra, migas tradicionales de pastor, y vino. El frío y la intensa lluvia de la mañana ha colaborado mucho con el hecho de que todos nos dedicáramos al condumio con fruición mientras observábamos el increíble cielo bardenero. Ha sido en definitiva, una mañana intensa que os recomiendo a todos. Acordaos: se celebra siempre el 18 de septiembre.


Aclaración: aunque me he llevado la cámara de fotos, llovía tanto que no he podido ni sacarla del bolso por lo que que las fotografías que os muestro en este post han sido tomadas en otras fechas distintas. Han sido realizadas por Luis Lainsa y Eduardo Blanco y las he encontrado en sus respectivas cuentas de Flickr.

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Nick Hunter dijo...

I visited Roncal and Salazaar valleys once in my life. These valleys are so beautiful. We find a small and beautiful town near these valleys, and I enjoyed hiking there. I want to visit these valleys again, but now I am working as a writer and busy with online assignment help .

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After reading your blog, I think it's mandatory to visit these valleys at least once. Due to my writing work job, I cannot travel. I am working as a writer and provide phd dissertation writing services. Whenever I get a chance, I will try to visit these beautiful valleys.

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Con las ovejas en las Bardenas es una expresión en español que se utiliza para referirse a alguien que está distraído o perdido en sus pensamientos, a menudo sin prestar atención a lo que está sucediendo a su alrededor. En otras palabras, sugiere que la persona está en otro mundo, similar a si estuviera en un lugar remoto como las Bardenas Reales, un parque natural y desierto en España.
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